20080615/系列报道(4-2):聚源和青城山

第四天——聚源(Ju Yuan) 周日,六月十五日

(加拿大中国地震灾区采访队记者Christina Stevens6月15日报道) 新秩序。这三个字是唯一可以用来形容地震灾区一个月后的景象。在东倒西歪的大厦及临时盖塔的帐篷阵之中,师红兵位于聚源大街的发型屋生意如常,师傅忙得不可开交,剪发、梳理及剃头等,所不同者,是发型屋的椅子、镜子及吹风机都是放在店铺外面,连生意也是在帐篷下面做的。

36岁的师红兵说,他在地震后一个星期便复业,因为他的雇员要工作,而且这样做对这帐篷市的民众有帮助,可以令他们觉得好一点。他解释说:“我们是服务业的,我们可以帮助自己,也可以帮助他们。”他又说他们算得上够运,因为只是没有电,水不足,而他们有自己的发电机。

在这个受地震蹂躝的小镇,伤心的事情远远多过这类故事。这个小镇便是有一家中学倒塌,差不多300名学生罹难的地方。但军队和警察都拦着去路,不让人前往学校或走近一点看,也不允许我们拍照。

走过小镇,当地一家医院的名称实在讽刺。快乐医院如今变了一座墙壁砸毁,玻璃粉碎,没人进出的地方。在一座完好无缺的建筑物旁,可以是另一座完全粉碎的建筑物的瓦砾,这时会奇怪土地公是否在挑选它的受害者,造出这种任意的破坏。

离聚源不远是青城山,是四川省最古老道场老君阁的所在地。这清修之地亦不能幸免于地震的破坏。主持人张道长表示,地震初时像飞机在头顶飞过似的,巨响隆隆,但很快她意会到发生什么事。结果这座有1800年历史,建于山上及被列为世界文化遗产的文物,倾斜了25度。色彩缤纷的大石倒下堆起几尺高的瓦砾,地面的裂缝令到小径也分开两边。到后山区我们用了两小时攀上高耸入云的山峰,那里就是道教的发源地。张道长说,她担心民众的生活多过历史受到摧毁。她这样说:“相比起中国二千年历史,这只是小事,发展总会继续,我们可以面对,也可以在将来做得更好。”

张道长表示民众都很坚强,这次地震就像是一次“恐吓,或者是上天给我们的考验”,而她相信中国及甚至世界都通过今次的考验。她说:“就好像地震使中国人更像一家人,使全世界的人更加像关心家人般,关注这里的情况。”

DAY 4 — Ju Yuan Sunday June 15th

(加拿大中国地震灾区采访队记者Christina Stevens6月15日报道)

The new normal. That is the only way to describe life in the earthquake zone a month later. Amid tent cities and crumbling buildings its almost business as usual in Shi Hong Bing’s hair salon, located on a main street in Ju Yuan. Stylists are busy cutting, combing and shaving. But there is a crucial difference. The chairs, mirrors and blow dryers have been moved outside; business is taking place under a tarp.

36 year old Bing says he got back to work one week after the quake hit because its important his staff have jobs, and they are making a difference to those still living in tent cities, by making customers feel better about themselves. “We help as a service industry. We can help ourselves and we can help the people” he explains, adding they were lucky “only the electricity is gone and there is not enough water, but we have a generator now.”

In a town ravaged by the quake, the sad stories far outnumber ones like his. This is the same town where nearly 300 students died when a middle school collapsed. Both army and police officers blocked the access road to the school today, preventing a closer look, and even telling us not to take pictures.

Across town, the name of a local hospital now seems bitterly ironic. Happiness Hospital is anything but. Walls have crumbled, glass shattered and its deserted. Its in an area where it seems as though the earth has picked and chosen its victims. Nearly intact buildings stand next to piles of rubble, a haphazard and meaningless pattern of destruction.

Not far from Ju Yuan is Qingcheng Shan, the mountain site of Sichuan’s oldest Taoist temple, a place of solace and contemplation. It wasn’t spared the earthquake’s rage either. Head of the Lao Jun Ge temple, Master Mingqing Zhang says at first the quake sounded like a big plane roaring over head, but then she realised what was happening and it hit the World Heritage Site hard. An 1800 year old mountain top temple, now lists at a 25 degree angle. Colourful stones from a temple just below lie in piles several feet deep, and a big rift in the earth splits the pathway. That was what we found after a two hour hike into the clouds, to what is considered to be the place where Taoism began. Zhang says she is more concerned about people’s lives than the loss of that kind of history. As for the damage she says “still, compared to the 2000 years of Chinese culture that is a little thing. Everything still continues, we can handle it and we can do much better in the future.”

Zhang says the people are strong, that the earthquake “was like intimidation, or god gave us a test,” a test she believes China, and even the world has passed, “it is like the earthquake made all the Chinese people more like a family. It is like all the people in the world are concerned like family and concerned about here.”

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